Subwoofer Box



Old Pics

Yay.
Those Boxes are for sale...e-mail me.

03/09/02

Gross.
I'm working a new spot for the subwoofers. When I decided to remove some of the ugly, water damaged insulation from the rear of the cab, I noticed that after I removed the storage compartment there was a ton of unused space back there, and it went all the way across! The first step was to get that insulation off, what a job. I used a wire wheel cup and that worked pretty good.

It made a huge mess.

I didn't have the tooling at the time to cut that out, so I got a few quotes. First one was $100 which sounded reasonable to me Gateway Auto Body Inc 1418 ne 119th (503)256-5750, the second was "Not less that $200, Not more than $300, and I'll even throw in a free rattle-can of truck bed coating" from Beets Auto Body Inc 518 SE 76th St (503)253-0022 (yeah right...as if a $5 can of paint would make all the difference). I decided to do what I should have done in the first place and call my mechanic Lee and have him do it. He never ceases to beat any quote I can find. One Fine Mechanic Inc 5140 SE Circle Ave B (503)665-5900. He cut the hole for $70. Thinking back, I realize I probably could have done it myself.

Who designed this thing anyway?

I thought about a few configurations, the first being three panels; two fixed with the subs, and a center hinged panel that would give me access to the space behind. I also considered two individually hinged panels so I could open whichever was needed, but I think I would have problems lining them up when they were closed.

I decided to go with a single panel the full length, with hinges and retainers to hold it in place. I used two spring-loaded hinges, but realized later that they didn't do much good.

That's 1/2

03/15/02

I am very happy with how it turned out. I removed the front bed panel (what a job) and saw that the space was about 2 feet deep! (Why all that dead space?) Unfortunately it is cut in half by a support for the bed. It took alot of scraping and cleaning to remove the old sealant.

That stuff was so sticky I though the panel was welded on!

I gave everything a coat of Rust-Oleum and then put some Reflectix insulation that I got from The Home Depot on the underside of the bed panel, and in the back section of the empty space. It doesn't do much for sound dampening but it keeps it a little warmer, and the reflectiveness of the material gives a little more light to that space. While I was at it, I also replaced the door insulation with the Reflextix. Actually, only the passenger side door had any insulation, but I used it to trace the pattern onto the Reflectix. The old insulation had about 15 unneccessary holes in it, so I left those out. Someday when I can afford it I will Dynamat the doors and that rear enclosure.

Hi.





The next step is to wait until the new sealant has fully dried and cured, and make sure there are no leaks before I plug the drain holes that are on either side of the transmission hump. After I had the cutting done, I was spraying the bed out with water when I realized how bad the bed leaked water, that's when I decided to pull that panel off and re-seal it. I think it probably leaks on purpose to keep the bed from holding water, that must be what the two 1" diameter drain holes are for.
E-mail Me: spy007@ductape.net